Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Epiphany

Epiphany. The last celebration of the Christmas season in Italy. Defined as " a Christian festival commemorating the manifestation of Christ to the gentiles in the person of the Magi." It also has come to mean in our vernacular a sudden understanding of the essence of something. I have had epiphanys - both in celebration of the day and in sudden understandings. They have been gratefully received. Especially when I have been dense!
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Yesterday, La Befana visited the children of Italy. Sometimes described as a wizened, witch-like old woman on a broomstick and other times thought to be lovely, she is beloved by young Italians. For it is La Befana who decides who gets presents and who gets coal. La Befana was visited by the Three Wise Men. She invited them into her kitchen (even though she was very
busy cleaning) and offered them some water. The Three Wise men invited her on the journey, but she declined. Couldn't they see she had cleaning to do? The Three Wise Men went on their way and La Befana swept. Later as she swept the dust outside, she glanced up at the sky and saw the Star of Bethlehem. And had her own epiphany. She instantly knew she had made a mistake and apparently got on her broomstick to find them and of course - never did. She roams the world searching for the Wise Men and the Baby Jesus.
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One day I shall write a play about La Befana. She roams the world. What has she seen? What has she done?
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Tonight we had sausages braised in wine for Epiphany. And blood oranges. And bugies... otherwise known as cencis... frappes or as we would say: fried pastry strips.


In a food processor combine these ingredients:
(Adapted from Tastes of Italia)
2-1/2 cups flour
2 eggs
1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
1/4 cup sugar
4 T olive oil
1/4 cup Marsala wine
4 T orange zest
2 t vanilla

You will also need about 2 cups of olive oil for frying (I use way less and do it in a skillet - I do not deep fry) and powdered sugar for dusting at the end.

Pulse until the ingredients combine. If the dough is dry, add water 1 T at a time. Remove from processor and form into a shiny ball, gently kneading. Break the dough in fourths and roll out each piece on a lightly floured surface until about 1/8 inch thick.
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With a pastry wheel (or knife or ravioli cutter) cut your strips to any length (mine were about 4 inches by 1-1/2 inches). Traditionally, they are a wee bit shorter.



Lay on waxed paper until ready to use. In a large skillet (or deep fryer - I don't own one of those), heat oil until a drop of water sizzles when dropped in the oil. Fry the strips in batches until golden - turning at least once.


Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.



Sift powdered sugar over them and serve.

So, while I am posting this a wee bit late for Epiphany, these are also traditionally served during Carnevale - which is happily - just around the corner!

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Tortoni from my Childhood

White Bear Lake is frozen - a good three-four feet. We have been waking up to fifteen below zero F. I will not speak of wind chill. Seems hardly the time for a frozen dessert.



But there's something about the New Year that makes me reflect on life, days, family, past and somehow my meandering mind has been obsessing on my favorite childhood dessert. A tortoni. Almondy-creamy, semi-freddo, simple, luscious.


Once upon a time in days of yore, New York City Italian restaurants all had red-checkered tablecloths, a Chianti bottle with a candle growing out of it and a simple menu of pastas with red sauces. Sometimes, a Chicken Parmigiana dinner would be thrown in. But basically it was spaghetti, manicotti or lasagne with red sauce. Linguine with white clam sauce and sometimes a Veal Marsala.


There wasn't even pizza! Pizza was reserved for the Pizza Parlours! Dessert was always a choice of spumoni or a tortoni. I always had the tortoni. Always. And now I have been craving one. I find souped-up versions of tortoni - laden with dried fruits, chocolate or whole eggs. They're not my childhood tortoni.


I pared down recipes and this was the closest I could find. Simple, easy, creamy-white (no egg yolks!) and when frozen, it is still warmer than the outdoors.


Tortoni Recipe - serves 8
2 egg whites

4 cups of heavy cream

1/4 cup confectioner's sugar

1 tsp almond extract

1 tsp vanilla extract

20 amaretti cookies crushed

garnish: toasted sliced almonds and crushed amaretti cookies


Whip your cream with the sugar and extracts till it is whipped cream consistency. Separately whip your egg whites till glossy and soft peaks form. Fold your egg whites into your whipped cream. Cover the bottom of 8 ramekins with 3/4 of the amaretti crushed cookies. Add the egg-white-almond cream. Freeze for four hours or more. Take out about ten minutes before serving. Garnish with toasted almonds and more amaretti cookies.



Clouds of egg whites folded into the cream keep it feeling light (even though we know it's not)


The crushed amaretti cookies add almond to the tortoni - but I don't think it's necessary. I am wondering about toasting almonds, grinding them and using that as a base.


I love the clouds of cream. Warmer than my clouds of snow.

Kirsten was a wee bit slow eating her tortoni. She was joined by hungry reinderr.

Although I think her brother and boyfriend had something to do with that! I find I still love the dessert of my childhood. It's vintage - as I am. And a wee bit nutty. Happy 2010 all. May it be sweet and nutty and a vintage year!

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Thank-you for 2009

The generosity of bloggers overwhelm me. I did not go into this for "free stuff." I do not comment for the same. I read your sweetnesses and try to return in kind. I came home from scary driving in downtown St. Paul to what you see below from Joe at Italyville.com. Bacis and torrone and coffee (black coffee! as Aunt Fay would say) and a heavenly jar of roasted peppers that I will guard with my life. And my college-age kids oohing and ahhing and wondering when they could partake. And I received this - for what? For commenting???? Sending a post? Which I did in order to join in the Feast. Who wouldn't want to join in an Italian feast? Thank-you, Joe.



I started the blog two years ago. The first year it was pretty private. Simply a way of sharing family stories and recipes so my Midwestern children would have a feel for their New Yorker Italian/American mother. One year ago (almost), I went public and met all of you.
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In early December I received two awards which I am late in acknowledging. So, I shall share the first award with "old" friends who lifted helped me navigate the blogging world and the second award with "new" friends.
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2009 has brought a lot of "slings and arrows." I won't dwell, for everyone has their share of slings and arrows. Cooking and blogging lets me lose myself for awhile and take a respite. So, to all of you - I thank you for being there and providing a safe haven of comfort and delectables.
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This is from Rebecca who created Chow and Chatter. I cook from her blog (most recently Columbia-inspired meatloaf) and enjoy her warmth and recipes. Thank-you, Rebecca.

I know some of you have "award-free" blogs and I respect that - so even if you do not pick up the award, I still wanted you to know I valued you.
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I have cooked from all the blogs mentioned below - so I hope you will visit them. I guarantee you'll leave smiling.


I would like to share this with:
Donna at My Tasty Treasures, Heather/Dar at Girlichef, Reeni at Cinnamon Spice & Everything Nice, Bunny at Bunny's Warm Oven, Sam from My Carolina Kitchen, Katherine at Smoky Mountain Cafe, Linda at Ciao Chow Linda and Wanda from Moments of Mine

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And this came from Gaga in the Kitchen, who like me, doesn't always measure - but manages some heavenly stuff. Her baked brie was a hit in this house last week.


This goes to seven people with seven facts about yourself. I think people know too much about me as it is! So I shall just state that I am an onion - lots of layers, lots of sarcasm, too much cynicism, cannot resist the wisecrack but I think I could be caramelized.
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I would like to share this with: Janet from Meatless Mama, Gera at Sweets Foods, Velva at Tomatoes on the Vine, Claudia at What's Cookin' Italian Style Cuisine, Bridgett at La Bella Cook,
Barbara GF at Dish 'n That and Mary at One Perfect Bite.
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Speaking of onions, my caramelized onion tart is ready ..... again, thanks to all of you and onward and upward in 2010! Who knows what we will create? Happy New Year! Felice Anna Nuovo!


Saturday, December 26, 2009

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Red Wine Gravy - Bon Appetit's October Cover Recipe

My resolve to keep my New Year's resolution 2008 to cook all 12 cover recipes of Bon Appetit has been successful. (There's just the little matter of baking the peppermint chocolate cake on December 2009's cover...) My procrastination is in posting the Cover Girl dinners - well - this, that and the other thing occurred. There was the sprained ankle.... and my six weeks directing a rodent (Stuart Little- a holiday show), a few deadlines and then this decision (which I declared in print) to bake 24 holiday Italian cookies in December.... which will definitely go into my "what was I thinking" file folder....
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Enough! Below is Bon Appetit's slow-cooked short ribs dinner. Smothered in a red wine, sun-dried tomato gravy with mashed potatoes and braised greens, it was a hit.


I bought my ribs from a local producer at St. Paul Farmer's Market - Otis Family Farms. His ribs were meaty and tender. Another plus for buying local and from someone you know.
The Swiss chard was briefly sauteed in olive oil.

The ribs were braised for two hours in red wine, herbs, sun-dried tomatoes and other aromatics.


Potatoes were mashed and the melding of flavors was delectable. Comforting, autumn, with the fresh taste of the Farmer's Market shining through. It can be made a day ahead, it does not need babysitting and it guarantees smiles at the dinner table. Conversation ceased for awhile as everyone savored the meal. Don't let the list of ingredients intimidate you - the meal is very easy to execute and once your ribs are braising, you are free to dance in your living room, take a bubble bath, check Facebook, read food blogs, or nap. The recipe is here: Braised beef short ribs.
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Dessert was "Cake with three milks." The cake is drenched in three milks and just - soaks it in - marinates and is the tenderest, milkiest, whitest, creamiest cake know to come out of an oven that does not contain buttercream. You will find yourself thanking cows. It will be part of your repertoire. Find the recipe for Pastel de Tres Leches at Girlchef's blog here.


Looks like a simple sheet cake.

But the clouds of milk tells you there is something special going on in that cake. It's inviting.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

The 12 Days of an Italian Foodie Christmas



The 12 Days of an Italian Foodie Christmas

On the 12th day of Christmas my true love gave to me...
12 scampis scampering
11 scungillis congealing
10 olives oiling
9 rapinis rapping
8 pignolis pining
7 feasts of fishes
6 yeasts-a-proofing
5 golden figs
4 squalling squids
3 frenched hens
2 curdled doves
and Mario Batali in a pine tree.

Merry Christmas, friends! May your days be merry and bright!
Claudia