Asparagus Parmesan Sformato and a Bonus

I have been yearning. And I don't know for what. I wake up with a longing. It's not a bad of state of being. But it does turn you into a slightly boring person - this longing. Because you spend a lot of time turned inward. And you lose track of conversations. And it's obvious. You're caught not listening. I want the "yearning" to come out and assert itself and so I have been doing things I have been meaning to do forever - hoping these activities would coax out the little-stubborn-yearning.

I planned on making these little asparagus puddings when they were actually in season - last April. Some things take me a long time to do. Even pleasant things. I am an equal-opportunity procrastinator. I later planned on doing these over the holidays. And then I was sure these would come to the table in January. And now I am kicking myself that I hadn't made them earlier and monthly.

I have a fondness for the sformato - the transformation of cheeses and vegetables into velvet. Something dense but in a believable disguise as a light offering. (Even though the 6 eggs belie that notion.) I do try to eat seasonally and locally - but in Minnesota - you could come down with scurvy if you didn't move outside your northland circle.

Perhaps it is because I have looked at this long enough.

We are at the point in winter where the driveway has lost a lot of weight and become quite narrow. Where the December sighs of "Such a pretty snowfall - it looks like a Christmas Card!" have turned into "Oh Goody (or expletive), "It's snowing." (using the sarcastic font).

I have spent my eves with Stephen King going back in time. And while the book helped me get through a fifth arctic blast - it just intensified the yearning.

Perhaps I was tired of the recipe on the fridge nagging me every time I opened the fridge door. Perhaps it was the lure of $2.99/pound asparagus that did not look exhausted. I finally made them. And I will make them again - with broccoli, with spinach, with Swiss chard and with locally grown, seasonal asparagus. In April. Or May. And you should also.

Ingredients - 8 Servings
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs from crustless Italian bread
2 pound asparagus, trimmed
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 cup freshly-grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup whole milk ricotta
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
4 eggs

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter 8 3/4-1 cup ramekins. Coat the bottom with breadcrumbs.
2. Cut off asparagus tips. Cook for 3 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Put tips aside.
3. Coarsely chop asparagus stalks. Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion. Saute onion about 6 minutes. Add stalks and saute 5 minutes. Add reserved asparagus cooking liquid. Cover and simmer for 12 minutes. Uncover and cook until liquid is absorbed, stirring often - about 5 minutes.
4. Transfer to food processor and puree.
5. Add Parmesan, ricotta and flour and process until just blended. Salt and pepper a bit.
6. In a large bowl, whisk eggs. Add the asparagus puree and whisk to blend. Stir in all but 8 of the asparagus tips.
7. Pour into ramekins - filling the ramekins about 3/4 of the way.
(Can be made ahead. Cover and chill.)
8. Put ramekins in water bath. (Put in roaster and large baking tray. Pour boiling water around ramekins - filling the pan about 1 inch with water.)
9. Bake "puddings" until set - about 35 minutes. Let stand ten minutes. Invert onto plates and garnish with reserved asparagus tips.

Look at it. Long for it.

It bends to the will of the seasons. It's flecked. It's cheese - baked and just a little browned. It's asparagus - coaxed  into a soft winter coat. Not intense - just soothing. Sort of cloudy. Sort of earthy. Sort of reassuring.

And it's good. Really good.

So is this.

Marinated Goat Cheese with Warmed Olives

The thing is - you probably have all in your kitchen: olive oil, a fresh herb, olives, goat cheese, a lemon.

And that's it. Use a goat cheese medallions or a log or two. Heat a bit of olive oil (about 1/4 of a cup) with the zest of a lemon and some fresh herbs (I used thyme - but use what suits your fancy). Add some olives - your choice - and some freshly-ground pepper. When nice and warm (not boiling), pour all over the goat cheese and serve.

I made this ahead of time on Valentine's Day and this lovely man that I am married to - who sent me flowers - who had an actual card waiting for me on Valentine's Day morning - didn't get any. Yeah. Well... I had my fill.

So I will need to make it again. But not ahead of time.

Meanwhile, my daughter has accused me of whoring out the cats to get comments on the blog.

Heavens-to-Betsy - why would I do that?

Gorgonzola Torte

Pungent, creamy, rindy, milky, sweet, smooth, hard, coarse, crumbly, soft. If chocolate and billowy clouds of confections are food of the goods, cheese is food of the earth.

I found this on Pinterest and followed the recipe to the grand Boulder Lovcavore blog which I have followed for years. I cut the recipe down because I needed to feed 5 and I thought it would never all get eaten. But I encourage you to look at the original recipe complete with the beautiful photos. Find it here. If you are feeding a crowd, I encourage you to go with the full recipe. Plus your slices will be much thicker and more welcoming.

It's sweet, earthy, creamy, spreadable and fulfills all tastebud requirements. It can be dressed down for sports and dressed up - for what? What do I say without sounding pretentious? Let's just say - it's a torte for all seasons.

Smear it on a pear, bread or crackers. I am thinking roasted figs (now sadly out of season) would make it sing.  And the next time - I'll leave off the extra sour cream. I don't need to calm the gorgonzola down. I like it assertive. I'm pleased. I have my mother's mouse gene. Blue cheeses do not scare me.

As noted, the original recipe has pecans which I lefty out because of allergies. But feel free to add them - the crunch and nutsy earth would be grand.

Ingredients
1-8 ounce package cream cheese
6 ounces Gorgonzola (Gorgonzola Dolce is very nice here... just saying)
1-1/4 cups sour cream (can use less if you decide not to add on the extra sour cream at end)
1/8 white pepper
1 egg
1/4 cup egg whites
1/4 cup scallions or chives

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Prep a 9-inch springform pan by buttering ( it or spraying it liberally).

Beat cream cheese and blue cheese until creamy. Add egg and beat. Add egg whites and beat. Mix in sour cream and lightly beat. Stir in white pepper and scallions/chives.

Pour into springform pan and bake for 30-35 minutes until knife inserted into middle comes out clean. Cool 5 minutes.

*Optional: I did this but didn't need to: add 3/4 cup of sour cream to top of torte. Bake for additional 5-10 minutes and cool and refrigerate for 3 hours - or preferably over night. Remove springform and slice and serve.

Writing all winter - for we do have winter. I blog and visit only 1 day per week. 2013 is different than 2012 but I endeavor to find all of you. There is writer's block as you can see.

And then they sleep on the computer and I melt.

Just as I wish the snow would melt.

Risotto Crab Cakes

Once or twice a month, Paul and I make the great trek to Surdyks in Minneapolis (it requires crossing the Mississippi - something people in the Twin Cities are sometimes loathe to do). It is my go-to place for fresh ricotta (for spoon-feeding myself), mortadella with pistachios, fun pastas (otherwise known as "artisanal pasta") and whatever else strikes our fancy. Last week some risotto-crab cakes struck our fancy.  Inexplicably last week, we had some fresh crab leftover. That doesn't happen often. But I knew what I wanted to do with it.

I came across a recipe for risotto crab cakes here and played with the recipe. It says to use your leftover risotto and I have never had leftover risotto. But who am I to judge? I've never had leftover crab either. (This would be equally good with your leftover lobster if there is such a thing.)

It's the end of January. It's been a dark day of sleet and snow. I think carbohydrate meals were created in January. These are certainly an appetizer but my sister and I could make a meal out of it. I had both kids home and so I continued my double-dipping of carbs - serving it with pasta and shrimp. To be sure there was also broccoli so we were not nutrient-starved. I could hold up my semi-virtuous head.

I love that these are crabby. In fact next time I will probably use less risotto and make them crabbier. Use fresh crab (I used snow crab clusters - use what you can find) or some good canned crab. Play with the amounts - if you want to use one cup of risotto and two cups of crab - go for it.  Use all olive oil or butter for the sauteing or just bake them (I drained them on a paper towel and then threw them in the oven).

Ingredients - makes 8 fairly large crab cakes or 12 smaller ones
2 cups risotto
1-2 cups of crab meat
2 tablespoons of scallions, chives, or favorite herbs
cornmeal
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter

A primer on "How to make risotto" can be found here. It just adding hot broth and stirring. It's perfect for people who like to get into a zen state sometime during the day.

In a medium-large bowl combine risotto, crab and scallions (or herbs). Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Cover a flat plate with a thin layer of corneal.

Form your mixture into 8-12 balls and flatten slightly. Put them in the dish with cornmeal and press them down. Turn over and do the same. You do not need to coat the sides.

In a large skillet heat the butter and olive oil. When hot, add your crab cakes and cook about 3 minutes per side (until lightly browned on both sides). (Add about 4-6 at a time so as not to crowd). Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately or rewarm in a low oven until heated through.

Serve with an aioli or creme fraiche. It's January. Indulge. A shorter winter month is on its way.

Conquering January with chicken roll-ups and pasta with breadcrumbs

We had a cold spell. Not your namby-pamby cold spell that I read about in other parts of the country. The kind where the thermometer dips to -16 degrees F (Not including wind chill. Although I am still convinced "wind chill" is a diabolical plot to intimidate...)  Air - hurts. It's the coldest we've been in 4 years. I had happily forgotten those winters of yore. Going with the "glass is half-full" philosophy, there are upsides to this cold. Peasant food! I love it. Crave it .... pasta... bread...cheese - all accented with some wild greens. Beans simmering, aromas promising... warmth.

When you need to put on two pairs of sock, long underwear and four upper layers before your jacket, hat and mittens just to walk down the driveway to pick up the mail - you know you are burning calories. So let's consume some.

Chicken rolls stuffed with Ricotta and Spinach* 
from Cucina Povera (my best friend in the winter months) by Pamela Sheldon Johns
*The original recipe does this with pork cutlets - it works equally well with either

Serves 4 (generously)

8 ounces spinach, steamed and chopped (or drain frozen)
1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese
sea salt and freshly grated pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
8 chicken cutlets - pounded thin
8 slices pancetta
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white wine

In a medium bowl, combine ricotta and spinach. Season with salt and pepper and nutmeg to taste. (I might add that a little crushed red pepper or some fresh herbs would also do well here.) Pound cutlets to 1/8 inch. Spread a thin layer of the spinach mixture on chicken leaving 1/4" border. Roll it, wrap with a slice of pancetta and keep in place with a toothpick or two. Repeat.

In a large, heavy saute pan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat and sear the roll-ups about two minutes on each side. (I did four at a time and set them aside.) Add wine and stir to scrape up browned bits. Return roll-ups to pan and simmer briskly for about 7-8 minutes (mine took about 12 minutes) turning them a few times to cook them through. Serve at once.

I would consider placing them under a broiler next time to crisp up the pancetta.

Pasta! Breadcrumbs! What's not to like? In keeping with my "consume calories to beat the cold," I served the chicken with a simple spaghetti with toasted breadcrumbs and Parmesan. Now that's "warm blanket food," isn't it? Pasta and bread. How many more carbs can I add to a carb dish? I toasted some croutons, threw them in the food processor and then did all to taste. (Spaghetti, toasted breadcrumbs, freshly-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Italian herbs, a little olive oil and some of the wine sauce from the chicken.)

In the true days of yore, this is a lot of meat for peasant cooking. But the original pork is more economical and the pancetta would keep the meat moist during the cooking process.
"Carpo pieno, anima consolata." If your stomach is full, your spirit will be calm. And I might add - warm.

So I Had the Ginger Cake and the Sausage Ragu

When you have a decade birthday, you do a lot of thinking. Even if the decade birthday was six months ago. (which it was so I am doing way too much thinking.)  Often "thinking" is not the way to go. Doing something yields better results. But I do the pondering thing. A lot. Between the "decade thing" and the New Year and what-will-I-do thing, early January was spent in  "deep ponder." A fun ponder. Pondering airfare to Arizona or Miami in January. The what-as-I-thinking-ponder as to "why did I decide to write a play 18 months ago that employs physics when I don't understand physics?" ...yeah - had a lot of coffee and wine figuring that ponder out.

And then there's usual "ponder" about taking off the last 12 pounds that apparently love me very much and don't want to leave. And so I scoffed at those last 12 pounds by eating fettuccine with sausage ragu and David Lebovitz's wintry fresh ginger cake. Because doing something is better than pondering.

I had a wee bit too much tomato in the ragu. (Note to self: stop obsessing, so what?)  I edited the ragu by eating the extra tomatoes. And you should, too. Because it's winter and feeding the brain with pasta and ragu is required in January.

Polishing it off with this Fresh Ginger Cake was one of my better ideas. You should make it a New Year's resolution. It's a resolution you will keep. In fact, you could continually roll it over into the next year's resolution and be done with any new resolutions once and for all.

The olive oil in the cake keeps it densely moist inside with a crackle on top (not a crunch mind you) that tickled my fancy. Crackly and pliable? Best of both worlds. Lebovitz serves it with a plum compote that certainly made me sit up and think spring. But some simple sweetened raspberries and a little cream worked just as well.

Because it's made with a generous amount of freshly-grated ginger, this is as fresh as one can get in Minnesota in January. The olive oil I used told me this recipe could pass muster in an Italian food blog. And I don't really care if I'm kidding myself. When it comes to dessert, I can talk myself into anything.

Fresh Ginger Cake by David Lebovitz from Ready for Dessert
(Makes one 9-inch cake, 10-12 servings)
4 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 cup (250 ml) mild-flavored molasses
1 cup (250 g) sugar
1 cup vegetable oil (250 ml) n(I used olive oil - probably made it a wee bit denser)
1-1/2 (350 g) cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 eggs, room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Butter bottom and sides of 9-inch springform or round cake pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a food processor (with metal blade) or with a sharp knife, chop the ginger until it is very fine. (I opted for the food processor). Set aside.

In a large bowl mix the molasses, sugar and oil. In a medium bowl mix the flour, cinnamon, cloves and pepper.. In a small sauce pan bring the water to a boil and stir in the baking soda. Whhisk hot water mixture into the molasses mixture. Add the chopped ginger.

Sift the flour mixture intro the molasses mixture and whisk to combine. Add the eggs one by one until thoroughly blended. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes clean - about an hour. Let cool completely. Run a knife around the edges of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Invert on a plate, peel away the parchment paper and invert back onto the plate you will serve it.

Serve warm or room temperature with whipped cream or a fruit compote. (I added two teaspoons of sugar to winter raspberries. When the juices were running, we drizzled it over the cake or - as my kids did - over the cream and the cake.

Now that you had your dessert first (which is sounding like a most likeable New Year's Resolution), have some sausage ragu. I've posted the recipe before but it's worth another look. I make at least one variation every winter. I am convinced it keeps us sane until spring.

Fettuccine with Sausage Ragu
(barely adapted from Biba Caggiano in Tastes of Italia - serves 6 in my home)
1 pound fettuccine
3 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
1 14-ounce can of low-salt beef broth or 14 ounces of your beef broth
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed (I used 1-1/2 pounds)
1/2 cup dry red wine
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 28-ounce can San Marzano whole tomatoes, drained (I didn't drain but for a truer ragu - you should)
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg (freshly grated if possible)
1/4 cup milk (I used a wee bit more)
Grated Parmesan for serving

Cook the fettuccine according to package directions. Soak the mushrooms in the beef broth for 30 minutes. (I warmed the broth - you don't need to). In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Add onion and cook 3-4 minutes until softened. Add sausage and cook 5-7 minutes until no longer pink. Add wine, mushrooms with broth, tomato paste and tomatoes. Stir to mix well. Bring to a boil and cook for about an hour, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes break down and melt into the meat so you have the tomatoes but not a sauce of it. Stir in nutmeg and milk and simmer for another 10-15 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper (I didn't need it.) Remove from heat and toss with pasta. Pass the Parmesan cheese.

As for those 12 pounds, I've thrown down the gauntlet. I can defeat them. Without sacrificing pasta and a David Lebovitz dessert. Happy 2013, all. May you have ginger cake and sausage ragu in your life.