Game Changer

Autumn. Time to stock up on root vegetables, make heaping pots of broth. Time for ragu.

Time to spice up the kitchen. And so I gathered lentils, onions, carrots, fennel, sausage and prepared for a myriad of stews and soups. The kind of food that that makes you feel loved and warm and in need of a roaring fire and a good book. The type of food that is an embrace.

And then Mother Nature shook her head and said, "Never assume, my dear. Never assume." And the temps soared to 80 degrees.

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It played havoc with my plans. It was a game-changer. I am used to game-changers. They peek up professionally. "Your life will change after this production/award/publication." In truth, I came home from every award ceremony and opening to, "Congrats, Mom. What's for dinner?" They are my real "life-game-changers."

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So when the weather turned my mealtime-game-plan around, I could scoff at Mother Nature and retort, "I can retreat back to the summer-game. What do you think I've been doing the last 3 months?" And then I cooked a whole bunch of dishes I hadn't made all summer.

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Grilled Lamb Chops with Ladolemono

Sometimes I am too traditional. I buy lamb, marinate it with rosemary, garlic and olive oil and call it a day. Because it's always good. Always works, always satisfies. Makes me crank up an Italian CD and "Finicula" around the house. But the Italian cook dishing up Greek food? Pure serendipity. I still have an oregano bush and a mint bush begging for use.

The Ladolemono sauce is simple. It has just enough spice to complement the lamb but doesn't overpower. A mixture of lemon juice, mustard, oregano and olive oil - I marinated the chops in it. Initially was unsure about the mustard - I use mustard sauces for mild meats and fish - but lamb has a distinct taste and you don't want to cover it. But this brightened the flavor. I dressed the salad with it and when no one was looking - drank it. If I had the foresight to make a cocktail out of it, I would have.

Ladolemono Sauce (I doubled it for the many uses)

(Adapted from Food & Wine - I increased the olive oil because I thought it was creamier and didn't want as much citrusy bite for the lamb. I increased the herbs because I could. This sauce can accompany fish, chicken, roasted vegetables , pasta, risotto - I think I'm in love)

• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (almost the juice of 1 lemon)
• 1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup chopped, fresh oregano leaves (can subsitute dried - about 2 tablespoons)
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper to taste

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Whisk all until emulsified. I also threw in Italian parsley and garnished the salad and lamb chops with mint. Actually, I didn't so much garnish as pour a truckload of the stuff on top.
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The Greek Salad was basic: kalamata olives, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, nicoise olives, feta and capers.

I marinated the lamb chops in a bit of the sauce for one hour at room temperature. Grilled them over high heat 3-4 minutes per side (adjust to thickness of chops). You want them a bit charred on the outside but still red deep inside.
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Calorie Alert: Copious amounts of calories ahead - the decadent, fat-laden, heart-winning Vichysoisse!

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I make this soup once a year. Walking through Farmers Market among freshly dug potatoes and sweetly-matured leeks, I was reminded by my children that my annual Vichysoisse soup was never made. And so it was. October may seem an odd time to make a cold soup - but when the ingredients can go from the ground to your pot in less than 72 hours, it's a temptation I cannot resist. Once a year. When there are lots of people around to feed.

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There's a fair amount of chopping which I do by hand - you can use a processor. Everything will be pureed so you really don't need to worry about mincing or making nice, even chops. We are a chive family - as you can see it's more than a garnish for us - it's a way of life.

Vichysoisse (adapted from my 25 year old NY Times Cookbook)

(I double the leeks and and do not puree the soup twice)

• 1/4 cup favorite butter (I used Earth Balance - heaven knows why - it's sort of like having a Diet Cola with a huge fast food meal)
• 6 leeks - cleaned, chooped - use white and light green parts (I like this soup very leeky)
• 1 large white onion, chopped
• 5 medium potaotoes, peeled and chopped
• 8 cups homemade or low-salt purchased chicken broth (Swanson's organic is not bad for store bought)
• 3 cups milk
• 2 cups heavy cream (or half and half for a thinner soup)
• chopped chives for garnish
• white pepper

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1. Melt butter in large stockpot or Dutch oven.
2. Add chopped leeks and onions and saute until vegetables soften - about ten minutes. Do not brown. You want the soup white!
3. Add stock and chopped potatoes. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for 35-40 minutes till all is soft. Remove from heat.
4. Add milk and stir till combined.
5. When cooled, puree in blender or food processor. Work in small batches (1-1/2 cups at a time). Put in new stockpot or return to old pot, add cream and bring to a simmer.
6. Season with white pepper and chill it.
7. Put in fridge and let it sit for a good 4-6 hours. I let it sit overnight. You can serve this hot - but it really sings of the countryside when cold. When cold, the soup coats the spoon in an ice-creamy way that begs for several licks.

"Garnish" with chives. And share. A brief return to warm-weather cooking. The ragu can wait.